The Man Behind the Barrel: Irish Distillers Ger Buckley Tells All
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here's nothing quite like the taste of a delicous Irish whiskey, and behind every great whiskey is a master cooper and the perfect barrel. These barrels not only provide a home for the precious liquid as it ages, but they also impart unique flavors and aromas that are essential to the final product.
When making whiskey, like that of Irish Distillers, whiskey barrels are an essential component. As they contain and age the whiskey, the wood they are made from contributes its own flavours and scents. Whiskey would lack depth and balance if it weren't aged in the right barrel. The function of the cooper, like that of seasoned, award-winning cooper Ger Buckley, is crucial and, in my opinion, sometimes undervalued in the process of manufacturing whiskey.
Whiskey Barrels
Find out about one of the most celebrated master coopers in the Irish whiskey industry in this world-exclusive interview. Ger Buckley of Irish Distillers shares his views and expertise, from the art of whiskey barrel making to his unique approach to crafting some of the world's most beloved whiskeys to come out of the world famous Midleton Distillery, Cork
Ger Buckley working on a barrel in the Midleton Distillery Cork
Q- As a 5th Generation Cooper, you must have seen and done it all, but for those who are unfamiliar, can you explain exactly what a cooper is and what you do?
A - As the cooper at Midleton Distillery, my team and I oversee the supply and maintenance of all barrels that Irish Distillers’ whiskeys are matured in and are responsible for ensuring that the Distillery’s 2 million casks are at peak condition at all times. We inspect all casks that enter the site visually to ensure that they’re fit for filling - if there is a leak, you’re at risk of losing a lot of whiskey over time and that is why we source the best quality barrels to mature our whiskeys in.
Along with my team of coopers, we have the skills to manually fix any problems with the barrels in order to protect the whiskey which may be maturing for anything between 3 to 50 years.
It is also our responsibility to maintain the relationship with our Spanish colleagues in Jerez, where we source the white oak barrels that eventually mature Jameson Whiskey, having already held Bourbons, Ports and Sherries. Through this relationship, I’ve seen where the oak is grown in northern Spain, watched as it’s been quarter sawn (a very specific cut to get the rings of the trees at 90 degrees on the board) and then seen the casks made in Jerez.
“A cooper is a very ancient craft – it goes back over 4,500 years. It’s the craft of making a timber container, essentially a barrel. ”
Evidenced by his ancestors' involvement in the industry, coopering has a long history in Buckley's family. “My family have been coopering for well over 200 years.” He explained.
Coopering is truly in Buckley's blood, as he revealed, “I have evidence of one of my ancestors being a member of the Coopers Society as far back as 1841, so you might say it is in my blood.”
His dedication to the trade stands as proof of the tradition that has been carried on by his family for many centuries. His understanding and respect for the art of barrel-making have undoubtedly been shaped by his family's long history in the industry, and his dedication to upholding the highest standards of quality and craftsmanship is a reflection of the enduring traditions and principles that have been passed down through his family over the generations.
Q - How do the casks arrive to the distillery, and are they examined before being sent?
A - The casks arrive fully made. They’re examined by our partners locally before they are sent, and once they arrive to us we inspect each and every one.
Whiskey barrels outside.
Q - Cooping requires a great deal of skill and craftsmanship, but how have the methods evolved since you first started in the industry?
A - The basic principles of coopering have remained the same for centuries and I still use my grandfather’s tools to make repairs. Although a few practices were no longer necessary during my apprenticeship, such as making staves or barrels, my father ensured that I regularly practiced these skills in order to keep all of the coopering skills and traditions alive. My team and I inspect and repair the barrels as required using traditional skills and tools.
One difference between now and Roman times is that the hoops on the barrels are now made from metal rather than timber. In ancient times metal was much too expensive and rare to use but in the 19th century it became more widely accessible and affordable.
Q - Is cooping a dying art now with some distilleries shutting down their cooperages or do you feel there's still a need for the human touch as opposed to other more technological or machine-based producing and maintenance of casks?
Ger Buckley Smiling for the camera, at the Midleton Distillery Cork
A - At Midleton, we have always valued the craft and skill of the cooper. Setting up a working cooperage requires a huge investment in tools, infrastructure and both equipment and knowledge. It’s a significant commitment! When I turned 16, I was just old enough to apply for the position of apprentice cooper at Midleton Distillery. After I was hired it would be 38 years before there was an opening for another apprentice.
However, over the last few years, two independent cooperages have opened up in Ireland in line with the increasing success of Irish whiskey, meaning more opportunities are available.
This is great for the craft.
“There absolutely is always a need for the human touch, especially when it comes to repairing the cask, which needs to be done manually. ”
Despite all of the technological and automated advancements, coopering still a very skilled occupation. The knowledge and commitment necessary to succeed in this sector is well represented by Ger Buckley.
Future generations of coopers will undoubtedly be inspired by his legacy, which has contributed to maintaining the high standards of quality and workmanship that are necessary for the manufacture of some of the world's greatest Irish Whiskey.
In terms of the craft, Buckley says, “Experience, skill and time all contribute to perfecting the craft of coopering.”
Ger Buckley working, at the Midleton Distillery Cork
Q - Can you describe some of the tactics or strategies you employ to educate apprentice coopers the trade you've honed over the years, and how long does it take to become a Master Cooper?
A - I learned the craft of coopering directly from my father who learned from his father, which is not something everyone can say. He showed me the methods and skills that had been passed on through generations of my family. He taught me everything I needed to know about wood and the skills to inspect and repair all sorts of barrels from ex bourbon barrels to sherry butts, hogsheads and many more.
There is no difference in the skills I am teaching my apprentices now than in the skills I learned from my father when I began my apprenticeship. For example, my apprentice has made a lot of his own tools. It’s very hands on, takes a lot of time and practise to gather the skill and knowledge. Everything must be done to perfection. There is no room for error because the barrels will leak.
Once appointed as an Apprentice at Irish Distillers, you train for four years. This time includes time abroad, in areas such as Scotland, Spain, France and America working on a variety of cooperage projects.
Q - What is your go-to tool for working every day, and how do you utilise it?
A - I collect and interpret tools – I’m interested in the way someone may use a tool differently to myself. One of my most treasured tools is my 90-year-old hammer – which is roughly 4.5 pounds in weight with the handle worn thin by generations of family use. I use this with a driver, which is used to secure the barrel.
I use a Cooper’s Croze that I’m the third generation to use to cut the groove on the of the cask. As with the Croze, some of our tools are named after animals, such as a dog, horse and swift, which I always thought was quite nice.
Ger Buckley with single piece of charred wood, slat or stave
I also have some of the timber compasses that my father and grandfather made. I treasure all my tools, as they allow me to practise my trade and make a livelihood from coopering, just like my ancestors.
Ger Buckley with his arms folded looking at the camera.
Q - Is there a favourite wood you prefer to work with, and which, in your opinion, is the greatest to keep hold of the spirit that then produces whiskey?
A - I like working with all oak, and I particular like working with the Spanish Oak Sherry Casks and the Irish Oak Hogsheads. The type of wood and its history contributes massively to the taste of the whiskey. Each type of oak brings its own influence, flavour and aromas to the maturing whiskey.
When you see a cask being emptied, with that beautiful golden amber, almost like honey, knowing that the colour has come straight from the casks it is a fantastic feeling.
Collaboration is essential in the whiskey-making process. From the master distiller to the cooper and from the marketer to the sales team, every member of the team brings unique expertise that is vital to the final product. Working together ensures that all aspects of the process are addressed, from selecting the perfect grains to crafting the perfect barrel. Collaboration fosters open communication and encourages creative problem-solving, allowing team members to learn from one another and ultimately produce a superior whiskey. Ultimately, it is the team's collaborative effort that results in a memorable and satisfying whiskey experience for consumers. ‘It’s a team effort.’ clarifies Buckley.
Q - How much influence do you have over the sorts of wood utilised in various bottlings? What role do you play in the sourcing of Hungarian Oak, Method and Madness, for example? Or recommending specific wood types to the team?
A - We often discuss new varieties of wood, not just oak, attending site visits to explore options. For example, in sourcing the Hungarian Oak for Method and Madness, I visited the cooperage and the forest in Northern Hungary. When we go on site visits, we are not only thinking about the possibility for the whiskey; we also investigate the traceability and sustainability of the wood, and the biodiversity of the forest it comes from.
Q - What do you do to unwind when you're not working? Do you have any passions outside of the company?
A - My passion is working with wood. At home I have a 600 square feet wood workshop which is my pride and joy. I enjoy wood turning, furniture making, wood carving. When I’m not in the workshop or the cooperage, I play golf and watch sports.
In conclusion, Ger Buckley's passion for the cooperage trade has made him a legend in the whiskey industry. His expertise, dedication, and attention to detail have helped to maintain the tradition of barrel-making, ensuring that the flavors and aromas of some of the world's finest whiskeys are preserved for generations to come. His contribution to the cooperage trade will always be remembered, and he will remain an inspiration to whiskey lovers and cooperage artisans alike.
All pictures of Ger Buckley belong to Irish Distillers
